I am fairly new when it comes to aquarium layout design, but I do have a strong interest in aquatic plants. Since I have a 6-in tank available, I thought to conduct an experiment with it. Below is a record of the layout process, which I hope will be of use to new friends interested in learning about aquascaping. Let the speed learning class begin!

2003 Experimental Layout Chapter

Equipments:
1. 15cm cube tank
2. “Cobra” lighting fixture with 1X9W PL bulb
3. Navy blue background cover
4. ADA AS
5. HOB filter (75L per hour)
6. Air stone + check valve
7. CO2 diffuser (subbed with regular air stone for now)
8. Lava rock
9. JBL 500g CO2 tank
10. Regulator and solenoid

Flora:
1. Microsorum pteropus v. narrow leaf
2. Anubias barteri v. nana
3. 2-leafed Hemianthus micranthemoides
4. Glossostigma elatinoides

August 30th, 2003
Before the tank set up, all the equipments must be ready. Below are few points to consider:
1. Take note of where to put the tank and also whether the table it sits on could withstand the weight.
2. It is better to use a canister filter in order to minimize CO2 loss.
3. Use the right lighting fixture for the tank. Lumen could be calculated, or
4. WPL (watt per liter) rule could be used as well.
5. Calculate the soil’s height in ratio to the tank (front low; back high).
6. Calculate materials to be used in the layout (rocks, woods), pick out suitable plants (front, middle, back).

A.
1. JBL 500g CO2 tank
2. Solenoid and regulator
3. Regular air stone (temporary diffuser substitute).
4. Tube to connect CO2 equipments.

B.
1. Hydor P10 canister filter.
2. ”Cobra” lighting fixture with 1X9W PL bulb.
3. Navy blue background cover.
4. Check valve and diffuser

C.
1. HOB filter (75L/Hr).
2. Lava rocks.

1. Carefully pour the Aquasoil into the tank (it is possible to add a small amount of fertilizer in-between the soil). Add a small portion of water to prevent the soil from eroding. Maintain front low and back high.

2. Choose suitable lava rock pieces and place them in the tank in designated locations.

3. Put the rocks carefully into the tank.

4. Use double-sided adhesives on the background cover.

5. Place the tank in a desired location. Slowly add the water, place the lighting fixture, and connect the CO2 bottle to its parts.

6. At this time the water in the tank might appear murky because it has not been cycled yet. So we could add some beneficial bacteria to jump-start such process. The hazy water should clear up in a matter of one to two weeks. This cycling process is very crucial, and which many beginners often thought could be accomplished by merely doing more water changes. The truth of the matter is, this act often worsen the cycling process by depleting the beneficial bacteria. Thus, the water clarification time is often prolonged. There are some remedies to go about, such as through the use of older filtration media or addition of shrimps and fish (the negative impact being their hastened death).

7. Adding the plants:
When setting up a new tank, take note to not add too many plants all at once because some will inevitably die due to inability to adapt to new conditions.
When choosing plants, one must consider the height, shape, growth rate, etc…..
In smaller tanks, for instance, plants with thinner leaf shapes should be used. Shorter plants are also a good choice. As for their relative placement in the tank and matching different types of plants, they are all based on the individual’s experience and capability!

Flora:
1. Anubias barteri v. nana
2. Microsorum pteropus v. Narrow leaf
3. Hemianthus micranthemoides two-leafed variety from Japan
4. Glossostigma elatinoides

Carefully use a pincer or tweezers to plant each stem to allow for some growing space between each.

8. After one day, water has cleared. Work completed!

Comments (5)

5. Written by sain.tyah, on 25-10-2007 02:19 傑斯汀兄 相信你是個很有耐心的人  年紀輕輕便有一番作為 佩服~

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